The Isle of Skye, renowned for its stunning Fairy Pools, towering Old Man of Storr, and exceptional dining experiences, has seen a significant increase in tourism recently. This summer, visitor numbers surged by 9% compared to the previous year, highlighting Skye’s popularity among travelers. An estimated 300,000 tourists are expected to visit Skye via the Skye Bridge this year, putting pressure on the island’s infrastructure without the introduction of a tourist tax to manage the influx. As Edinburgh considers implementing a visitor fee next summer, many wonder if Skye will adopt similar measures.

As local authorities deliberate on this issue, those familiar with the area are seeking less crowded destinations. Many are turning their attention to Mull, an Inner Hebridean island that offers similar charms to Skye, such as artisanal food, stylish accommodations, and breathtaking views.

Mull, the second-largest island in the archipelago after Skye, presents a dramatic landscape that rivals its more famous neighbor. With its 300-mile rugged coastline and the 966-meter-high Ben More shrouded in mist, Mull exudes a unique sense of beauty and remoteness, especially as late summer casts its deepening light across the scenery.

As swallows prepare to migrate and the landscape transforms with changing seasons, Mull continues to unveil new attractions. It’s no wonder that the Prince and Princess of Wales have chosen to celebrate their 14th wedding anniversary on this captivating island.

During a visit in July with my boyfriend, Paul, and our dog, we first ventured to Tobermory, the island’s capital. Here, we discovered a new dining establishment, An Cala Ciuin, located above the Mishnish Hotel. There, I encountered chef Ross Caithness watching the fisherman Alan return with a full catch. The day’s menu featured delicious langoustine tartare, a dish that captures the essence of seafood with bright citrus and anise flavors.

The Western Isles Hotel, established in 1883, continues to be the premier accommodation in Tobermory. This historic hotel sits atop cliffs, offering sweeping views and was the filming location for scenes from the classic film I Know Where I’m Going!, which tells the story of a woman whose plans are thwarted by bad weather on Mull. Recently refurbished, the hotel now features an inviting ambiance with cozy furnishings, perfect for an autumn retreat.

On one warm day, we drove west from Tobermory to Calgary Bay, passing signs about otters and spotting lone hikers lost in their books en route. The vibrant sky mirrored the colors of sardines, a blend of metallic grey accented by pinks, as we enjoyed the enticing sounds of plovers along the sandy shores.

Mull offers several scenic beaches, such as Laggan Sands near Loch Buie, where ancient ruins of Moy Castle stand. The sand was golden, and as we walked, colorful children’s footwear dotted the gardens nearby, adding to the charm of the quiet landscape.

Our exploration led us to Treshnish Cottages, where we stayed in a beautifully designed shepherd’s hut adorned with local artwork. The luxurious outdoor bathtub offered views of nearby islands, including Coll, Canna, Rum, and the ever-present Skye. The road meanders past the Gribun rocks, showcasing dramatic cliffs and rock formations shaped by ancient glaciers.

While Mull is still relatively tranquil, access can be challenging due to the unpredictability of the CalMac ferry service from Oban. Despite promised fleet upgrades by 2026, the effort to reach Mull is worthwhile for its serenity and natural beauty.

Exploring the island, you quickly come across handmade signs advertising local produce. From fresh eggs to artisanal jams, Mull’s residents offer delightful products that reflect the island’s creativity. Local businesses, including Isle of Mull Candles and the Piece Box bakery, enrich the experience with unique offerings.

Paul, who spent his childhood summers on Mull, reminisced about his youthful days helping local farmers. One of our stops included Ardalanish Weavers on the southwestern coast, producing beautiful tweed products dyed using plants from the island. Its exquisite textiles are a testament to Mull’s rich craftsmanship.

Visiting Mull also brings visitors to stunning locations, including Ardalanish Beach, perfect for a relaxing day out. The island’s serene environment offers an escape from the busyness of daily life, making it a perfect getaway. Families and visitors alike enjoy the natural beauty and local charms found throughout the area.

Additional Recommendations for Staying and Dining on Mull

Craigaig Bothy, Ulva

Another remarkable accommodation option can be found on the Isle of Ulva, accessible via a short ferry ride from Mull. The Craigaig Bothy is an off-grid cottage with an inviting interior designed by Banjo Beale, providing a unique and cozy retreat.

Dining Options

Croft 3 serves exceptional culinary delights in a Nordic-style building that has earned architectural recognition. The menu includes local specialties and innovative dishes.

The Mull Bread Box in Ballygown is known for its delicious sourdough, baked to perfection and perfect for a light meal.

The Glass Barn, located just outside Tobermory, specializes in dishes that incorporate Isle of Mull cheese, served in a charming setting surrounded by nature.

This article was originally published in September 2024.